Along with Asilah (40 kms. From Tangier on the coast), Chefchaouen (120 kms. from Tangier at 600 mts. nestled under the mountains) is for me the most attractive (and certainly most photogenic) small town in Northern Morocco. Whereas Asilah is white-with-blue, Chefchaouen is blue-with-white. It has a peaceful, no-hassle atmosphere (and this is not because half the shop owners are ‘stoned’ as I have read elswhere). The main square which gets the sun until late in the evening is ideal for people watching.

--- Chefchaouen Morocco ---

We were told it is getting ever more ‘touristy’ in the Medina, but at the end of May/early June there were very few tourists and no ‘groups’. There are four streets leading off the main square. Follow each one of them in turn. The more tourist-oriented shops are nearer the square, thereafter they sell more local produce such as goat cheeses, honey, and the usual colourful plastic ware. Make sure to follow the little street and going up byond Casa Hassan, and involving quite a lot of steps, taking you to Ras El Ma (the local Berber woman are sitting at the side of this street selling their own home-grown produce) which is where the women meet, and wash their clothes and their carpets in the fast running water from the mountain.

--- Chefchaouen Morocco ---

Very good buys are the blankets (all sizes, all natural fibres, they wash really well) and the leather goods. We did all our pre-Christmas shopping (in May!) and my friends will be getting the super leather bracelets and leather bags for years to come. They are very quick to copy designer items but giving them their own touch, really irresistible.

There are several spectacular trails for walkers – I did not do these, but can certainly imagine that the views must be great, and I am told it is lovely to cool off in the fast- flowing rivers.

--- Chefchaouen Morocco ---

We stayed at Casa Hassan which is very well located in the centre, just 100 mts. from the main square. It is very low key and friendly. Very Moroccan in style, it has a well-used feel about it. Make sure to ask for a room in the old part (although perhaps avoiding Room 6 as the bed -which is a very thin mattrass- is on a mezzanine). The rooms are fairly basic, ceiling lighting, the occasional shelf missing, and sheets -though very clean- were still a bit damp from the washing. Rooms on the street side can be noisy until late in the night (when I was there the ‘noise’ was very English!). Plenty of hot water and good pressure. The food was good; typical Moroccan dishes made in their open kitchen. The dining room was cold, and we realised too late we could have asked them to light the fire! We paid (June 2008) Dhr. 500 (approx. €.50) per person, single use of room, and this included a good breakfast and a copious dinner (or lunch). We would certainly stay there again.

--- Chefchaouen Morocco ---

To get to Chefchaouen you can take a local bus from Tangier (this takes about 2 and a half hours) or take a taxi – this will cost you approximately €.120/150 (plus tip) for the return journey and the chauffeur stays overnight, but negotiate this beforehand. It is of course a very nice way to do it as you can stop where you wish to take photos, and there are some lovely views you will surely want to ‘record’. You can do it in one day, but I would strongly recommend staying at least one night, two would be great and probably enough! Try to travel with very little luggage as getting it to your hotel is not easy if you don’t find someone to help you (most are willing in return for payment!).

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